Norway Finalé: The Roam Home

After leaving Norway, I have found myself with time to spare to make it to the ferry and back to the UK.

The unfortunate part is that I didn’t have much interest in the areas I was to be travelling through and so, had to find things to do. The Landy decided to help occupy some time also!

I took a look at the map and simply picked places that may be of interest and that were in the general direction of Dunkirk.

First; Amsterdam. This required a long run from the top to the bottom of Denmark, and then through Germany to the Netherlands.

After a couple of days I was on the outskirts of Amsterdam, in quite a nice rest area that I figured would be sufficient for the night. However, it seemed that a good size population of single men also frequented this area.

At first when there were a couple of guys wandering around, I figured they were just resting as was I. Some suspicions of some other activity came when I noticed that on occasion, these chaps would disappear into a nearby woodland area, either following or, followed by other gentlemen. Ah! A rendezvous point for salacious activity it seems!

This went on until quite late in the night, even when flashlights were required for them to continue.

I remained firmly locked in the Landy, with curtains closed for the remainder of the night!

In the morning I was alone again.

The easiest manner to get into Amsterdam it seems is by making use of the Park and Ride system they have. And it’s very easy and cheap.

There are a few car parks that are off the main outer roads and they are all connected to the town centre by tram.

The Tram is €5 for a return and so long as you check out of the town centre area using the chipped ticket then the parking is only €1.

It’s simple and straightforward you just need to remember the tram number and station for the car park.

Amsterdam is a nice town. It lives up to it’s reputation, as you walk around the old town there are plenty of opportunities for window shopping so to speak with the semi clothed ladies in the windows all beckoning you in, and enticing you to part with your cash in return for a thrill.

The other shops are coffee shops that will sell hashish, and then the shops that have a whole range of implements of carnal pleasure that on a couple of occasions took me a while to figure out which way up, and how they should be used!

Away from these establishments, Amsterdam is a nice town, it has it’s old shopping arcades that remind me of the areas around Covent Garden in London and it has it’s picturesque canal routes.

It also has it’s historic areas and more modern shopping facilities.

It only took a few hours to see the main areas of interest for me so by about lunchtime I left.

This part of the journey only lasted a few miles however; a rumbling had started from one of the front wheels, this grew louder and then over about 10 miles it had reached a definite crescendo of the unmistakable grinding of unhappy metal against very unhappy metal.

Wheel bearing failure. Damn!

Just outside Utrecht I tried to change the bearing myself, but it had seized. I have an EU breakdown and recovery service with my insurance and am very glad that I have, they arranged the recovery, a hotel room for the night, and for a garage to affect the repair. It wasn’t totally seamless and I think every step along the way had to be re worked, however, I didn’t have the headache of determining the recovery company and garage, and the hotel is part of my cover, I just needed to pay for the repair.

Bearing in mind it was a Land Rover main dealer it was repaired the following day and only cost €200 for the repair. Just 2 hours work.

I’m not sure the bearing rollers should have flat spots!

I was on my way again and heading for Bruges.

Parking in Bruges is not as easy as Amsterdam! There are underground cap parks with a max height of 2mtrs, that won’t do. There are overground car parks that require a ‘European parking disc’ (new thing on me, I’m sure I live in Europe and have never heard of that). Or there are ‘peripheral’ parking areas that I couldn’t really find out much about.

So after trundling around the ring road trying to find somewhere to park, I stopped in a peripheral place and hoped for the best.

Bruges is a lovely town. Quaint, colourful, ‘art deco’ apparently. All I know is that I liked it. Granted I was there early so not much was open and as with most towns I only had a tolerance of a couple of hours before getting bored, but if I was to plan to go there for a weekend then there is plenty to do and see.

I got back to the car, it was ticketless so I have to assume I made an ok choice to park there.

After leaving Bruges, I made way via the coastal route towards Dunkirk.

I stopped at a small place called Middelkerke just south of Oostende, lovely empty beach, not a lot of traffic so simply passed the time there for a while, had a few walks on the beach and watched the world and ships go by.

I catch the ferry home tomorrow, which effectively brings this particular part of my blog to a close.

I’ve thoroughly loved these three weeks, they feel a lot longer, and, if I didn’t need to I could easily stay trundling onwards for longer. One thing is for sure, I very much enjoy my own company, not sure why others don’t quite so much though!

I will be planning another journey soon, not sure where to as yet, but that’ll come in good time.

As for now though, as it’s in my mind and, as it’s my next destination, I’m really looking forward to getting home.

S

X

Norway Day 10: A bit of fun!

On this grey and misty morning, I set off to complete the final part of the Atlantic Road, leaving it, and the Article Circle experience behind but stored in long term memory (hopefully!).

I moved on, back on the tour again, down via Molde and my second fjord ferry crossing to Ålesund, which even in the misty morning light is still a picturesque town situated across several islands, the main part of the town is across two islands; Heissa, and Nørvøya.

This was a brief photo stop as although it was a planned day stop, it was shut! Maybe it was due to being Sunday? Maybe I was too early? (11am). Either way, and although it was going to put me 2 days ahead of schedule again, I decided to continue to another of the main attractions of this journey; Trollstigen!

I didn’t make it though!

As I passed through a small town Spjelkavik, in a fuel station was sat a Defender, Discovery, Freelander and a Jeep Cherokee, all gave a wave as I drove past.

Now I don’t know about other countries, but in the UK, a group of 4×4’s meeting in a fuel stop on a Sunday morning means only one thing…..Off road fun!

After a turnaround a pass on the road in the opposite direction and yet another turnaround, I eventually caught up with them and followed them when they pulled in to an old sand works.

‘Them’ being the local faction of the Norwegian Land Rover Owners Club!

I had found something to do with my spare day!

I was made to feel very welcome, and I was grateful to meet David, an English Ex patriot who had lived in Norway for 37 years. He has no plans to return to live in England, I think I can understand why.

The group of Defenders and Discoveries grew, and I was taken around the area a couple of times. I took a ‘soft’ route around in mine, after all I still have a long way to go and didn’t want to risk any damage.

It was a good day of off road fun!

After a delicious BBQ, I was given a tip on a scenic gravel road to take to Trollstigen. I’m on this road now and really pleasantly surprised at how the day turned out!

Thanks guys!

Norway Day 6: The Arctic Circle, Sunburn, and a Maelstrom..

After many, many months of planning, 1800 miles of driving and about 600 tracks on the iPod, I made it to the Arctic Circle!

Saying ‘I’ is quite unfair really, it’s actually my old Defender that has got me here (with help from SatNav of course). Many have doubted her resolve, but she’s motored on, I’m the one who was paranoid about any problems, she just got on with the job at hand. With the exception of a leaky transfer box seal, she hasn’t missed a beat, and in fact I think she’s enjoyed the chance to cover some miles and de-coke, She seems to have a bit more power.

A chap at work, Scott, thinks that I’ll have grown very attached to her by the time I get home. Truth be told, I’m already fond of her, she doesn’t have a name however, many Defender owners name theirs, and ‘The Beast’ doesn’t feel so apt anymore.

She’s crossed the Arctic Circle too, and has the Sticker to prove it!

Polarsirkelen

Certain images instantly go through your head when any one mentions ‘The Arctic Circle’. These images will undoubtedly contain all or some of the following; snow, blizzards, dog sleds, reindeer, Eskimos, igloos, whales, Aurora Borealis, Ice road truckers, the North Pole, explorers on skis, wearing large furry coats, dragging sleds with ice forming on their eyebrows and moustaches etc etc. well they’re the images I used to have anyway!

Of all of those images, I’ve seen one in reality so far; snow!

I was thinking that it was a bit touch and go whether there would be snow up here or not. I’d seen a lot of pictures of the region, and there wasn’t alway a lot of snow around. I couldn’t imagine seeing a non-snowy Arctic Circle.

Well truth be told, you can’t actually see the Article Circle, and the dotted line on maps doesn’t actually exist? I couldn’t find it anywhere!

The one point of reference in Norway for the Article Circle is the, Polarsirkel Senteret or The Arctic Circle Centre.

This is situated on the one main road heading North in Norway, the E6, and is about 100km North of Mo I Rana, on the Saltfjellet Mountain Range.

Getting to it is straight forward, and of course beautiful! There’s only the E6 going this way and although I’ve been on it for several hundred of miles, it’s still astounding how one country can have so much stunning scenery.

The centre is an un-imposing red, wooden, domed building that has various monuments around it dedicated to various historical occurrences.

Inside is very touristy, the normal bric-a-brac of T-shirts, coasters, mugs, shot glasses, key rings etc to purchase as proof of being in the Arctic Circle. So after a couple of necessary purchases (key-ring, stickers, a tin of mints, and a nice new wind stopper jacket), there wasn’t a lot to keep me there so I decided to find some where for lunch.

Only a couple of Km further north was a suitable parking place, and whilst I was getting my stove set up, I realised how hot the sun was, I guess in combination with the Snow, the sun was being reflected all around it was gorgeous. And yes, I’m ever so slightly red in the face and on my arms due to it!

While I was having lunch and prepping my shower (12v power shower that suckers to the side of the car, a great invention), a chap, and dog, parked up and after a while we started chatting, he and his dog were going to Sweden.

Now, considering we’re only about 50 miles from Sweden that’s no big issue, however, as he unloads a set of skis and 2 sledges from his car, he and his pooch are going across country and his little dog has his own sled to pull!!

And off they went! Amazing!

Feeling very refreshed after my Arctic shower, I set off to Saltstraumen to see the ‘maelstrom’.

Saltstraumen has the strongest tidal current in the world. Basically, as the tide comes in or out, a whole load of water passes through a relatively narrow gap in the mouth of the river causing huge whirlpools of about 10 metres wide and 5 metres deep that are a danger to ships, boats, and generally anything that happens to be passing on the water.

I got there just as the tide was coming in so was up for a good show, unfortunately it was less of a Maelstrom and more of a mish mash. It’s clearly dependent upon the moons cycles and time of year etc, but it was interesting to watch and of course the town is overlooked by the now ubiquitous snow capped mountains.

I headed back to the parking spot near the Arctic Circle Centre, which is where I’m writing this. I’ve stayed awake longer today and it’s now 12.20am (actually it’s now my Birthday whoo hoo!). I was wondering what the midnight sun would be like. Well it’s not sunny, but is definitely still light. Probably more dusk than daylight.

I’ll wake up tomorrow (later today) on my Birthday in the Arctic Circle, I’m not sure many folks can say they’ve done that, but that will be the conclusion for part one of this Journey.

I’ve covered just about 2000 miles in a little under a week, I now have 2 weeks remaining, which I will cover about another 1900 miles. This will be more leisurely however.

In essence now, the rest if my journey is homeward bound, slowly though, with plenty to see along the way. As it’s the only road, I have to retrace a few hundred miles back down the E6, but in about 2 days time I’ll have new things to see. In theory as I’m heading down the West of the country and I’m driving on the right, in a right hand drive car, I should have most of the scenery right beside me.

Norway Day 1: Not Norway!

I’m finally on my way to Norway after ‘only’ 18 months of planning.

The past week has been very eventful; my brakes have failed, my head gasket failed, my wheel bearings failed…. But all in my head!! I call this ‘Rover Paranoia’.

I have started to hear new rattles, groans, grinding noises and, felt odd vibrations coming from various different areas of the Landy, none of which were there before!

So determined was I that something was amiss, I was driving with the window down and radio volume low so I could hear every little thing that could potentially bring the journey to a premature halt.

That was until on one journey, I forgot to listen.

I realised as I pulled up at home, that the car was fine! Not falling to bits, no noisier than it had been for the past several months, just normal. I gave myself a psychological kick and resolved that ‘what will be, will be’ and if something breaks, it can be fixed. I do have breakdown cover after all.

So I’m writing this on the Ferry from Dover to Dunkirk, about halfway through the 2hr crossing and am pleased with having a faultless start. The traffic to Dover was fine albeit a little busy in places, I was able to get an earlier ferry due to arriving at Dover in good time, and the DFDS / Dover port embarkation process was simple and quick. The weather is fabulous, the sea is smooth, and the Cod and chips with mushy peas from the restaurant really satisfying! A Great start!

It has occurred to me however, that whilst this is a trip to visit Norway, it’s not all Norway. I have a whole bunch of other countries to get through first. At any other given opportunity, there would be excitement about visiting any one of them, however they are merely waypoints that I am required to pass through so I can get to the end goal.

I’ll enjoy each country as I go though them but I’ll apologise now to France, Belgium, Germany, Netherlands, Denmark and Sweden, I’m afraid you’re incidental this time around!

Tomorrow; Bremen…

A bit of Interest..!

 

There has been a little bit of interest in my upcoming journey to Norway, mostly from friends, and my Mum (of course), and also from the US of A!

I was contacted by John Kostuch who is a presenter of an awesome podcast dedicated to Land Rovers called Centresteer in homage to the original prototype Land Rover which had it’s steering wheel  in the centre of the cockpit.

I was honoured, and, excited to take part and talk about my plans with John and the crew on the podcast; a very new experience for me if for no other reason than in general folks don’t take much interest in what I’m doing..!

Any how, if you have the opportunity (or want) to listen to the podcast, you’ll find it here – Centresteer Ep 13 enjoy!

Centresteer Website, Centresteer Twitter feed

Ready to go!

It’s 5 days! until I head off to Norway and I’m at a point now where I’m pretty much ready to go.

To put it another way though, if I’m not ready now, then it’s too late to worry about being ready, so, I’m going, ready or not!

I have food packed;

A combination of soups, stews, pasta, noodles, porridge and breakfast bars. Plus coffee, hot chocolate, tea and UHT milk.

I’ll be living just like a student !!

Here’s a pic of where I’ll be living for the 3 weeks.

It’s fairly rough and ready, but I know the sleeping bag is warm, the bed is comfortable, the Landy is waterproof (well, where it needs to be!), the curtains will allow privacy, and the LED strip light works.

Up in the front I have my iPad with CoPilot Navigation software installed, and, a Garmin standard satnav as a back up.

The split charge system is good, with plenty of 12v sockets available, plus a 500w inverter for my laptop and camera battery charger.

The days are going by quickly now….

What to take..? What to leave..?

 

It’s easy to get carried away and totally paranoid about the subject of what to take when travelling;

 ‘What should I take? What shouldn’t I take? What if I don’t take this but need it? What if take this but never need it and it’s wasting space?’

it’s also easy to say ‘sod it’! I’ll just take what I have and make do whilst I’m out there!’.

Fortunately I’m not going to a totally uninhabited 3rd world region on this trip, I’m traveling about 4000 miles which, to some, may be a long way but it’s mainly on good roads, with access to fuel, service stations, towns, and supplies en route. I’m not that concerned.

So what am I taking?

iPad with CoPilot Satnav app installed Garmin Satnav iPhone Asus Laptop Canon 350D DSLR GoPro Hero 2 Tripod Gorillapod 12v Shower European Road Maps

Trangia Stove Hi-lift Jack Assortment of tools Socket set Cable Ties Duck Tape Gas Soldering Iron Spare Cables & Fuses First aid kits Spirit fuel Basha & Poles Paracord Light My fire Firesteels Light my Fire Tinder on a rope and Tindersticks BBQ Grill

Sachets of instant coffee Sachets of Hot Chocolate 20 ltrs of water Tins of soup & stew Tinned hot dogs Selection of tinned veg Pasta 2 ltrs of Long Life Milk Washing & Shower items Sugar Henderson’s Relish Porridge Pots Toilet Paper Wet wipes Clothes Walking boots

Oh and a 1990 Land rover Defender 200 TDI 110 complete with Bed installed….

Travelling to Norway

 

In about two weeks I’m heading to Norway and the Arctic Circle, over landing in the 110. Here’s a rough plan of the route;

I’m crossing the channel via ferry, then driving at breakneck speed (50mph ish) up to the furthest point in about a week, for my Birthday. Then I’ll be able to take a more leisurely trek back to the UK over a couple of weeks.

I have a timeline planned (download below), with some heavy driving days and plenty of light days, all in all I shouldn’t be on the road for more than 8 hours per day, which, with a bit of good planning, easily allows a couple of hours of stops to have a look around once in a while.

The journey will cover a distance of about 4000 miles over 22 days, which, with an average of 181 miles per day, sounds fairly easy to do.

Needless to say, I can’t wait to get going.

Norway Itinery Download

Refreshing and Re-energising….

 

So, in reality and as I expected of myself, I didn’t keep up to date with this blog.

I’ve completed some more work on the 110, and am now pretty much prepped for my first overland journey in her.  I’m heading to Norway, and maybe, just maybe, I’ll keep this blog up to date as I go.

Here’s a quick image of a trip into the Lake District at the beginning of April.

The Big Body Issues…..

To give some idea of the task ahead, I thought I’d share some photos of the areas of most concern for this project.

This post is all about the body.

Doors, floor rails, C posts, capping, wheels; all need replacing.

Over the time of this blog I’ll be showing the attempts I make at this. Bearing in mind I haven’t welded or performed any bodywork restoration previously, It’ll be interesting (for me anyway) to learn how to do all of this.

In addition to the lack of experience, there are other things to overcome such as not having a workshop or garage of any kind in which to do the work….

We’ll see how I get on…